Albert Bichot between terroir and "merroir"
Domaine Albert Bichot: A Transatlantic Experiment in Wine Aging
Albert Bichot, one of Burgundy’s most revered wine houses, has embarked on a maritime odyssey to explore the uncharted waters of wine aging.
Two barrels of Bourgogne Côte d’Or Chardonnay “Secret de Famille,” vintage 2024, have set sail aboard the cargo ship *Grain de Sail II*, marking the beginning of a unique sensory expedition.
This experiment, which harks back to the 19th-century practice of transporting wine by sea, seeks to uncover the effects of oceanic conditions on the evolution of white wines.
The journey, spanning two months and crossing the Atlantic Ocean, will see the barrels—each holding 228 liters of Chardonnay—exposed to the relentless rhythms of the sea.
From the salty air and humidity to the constant agitation and temperature fluctuations, the wine will undergo a transformative process far removed from the controlled environment of a cellar.
Albert Bichot’s aim is to study how these conditions might accelerate aging and impart distinct mineral and saline notes, a phenomenon the winemaker has dubbed “merroir.”
To meticulously document this experiment, Albert Bichot has partnered with Onafis, a Nantes-based “Wine Tech” company specializing in connected systems for wine maturation.
A probe equipped with seven sensors will monitor the barrels in real time, tracking variables such as temperature, dissolved gases, volatile gases, and humidity.
Matthieu Mangenot, Onafis’s Technical Director, will oversee the data collection, providing insights into the impact of the maritime environment on wine aging.
This initiative is not merely a scientific endeavor but also a philosophical one. By revisiting the transport methods of the past, Albert Bichot seeks to reconnect with a time when wine was shaped by the unpredictable forces of nature.
The experiment also aligns with the company’s broader commitment to environmental stewardship, as evidenced by its support for the Tara Océan Foundation and its recent Microbiomes Mission to Antarctica.
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The voyage of the *Grain de Sail II* is not just a journey across the Atlantic but a journey through time. While the two barrels brave the elements at sea, two identical barrels remain in the cellars of Albert Bichot’s estate in Beaune, serving as a control group.
Upon the ship’s return to Saint-Malo in early March, a comparative tasting will reveal the extent to which the maritime environment has influenced the wine’s character.
This experiment raises intriguing questions about the concept of “merroir,” the oceanic counterpart to the well-established notion of terroir.
Just as terroir reflects the influence of soil, climate, and topography on a wine’s profile, merroir encompasses the effects of water quality, algae, currents, and the mineral content of the seabed.
Could the sea, with its vast and dynamic ecosystem, become a new frontier for winemaking?
Albert Bichot’s foray into maritime wine aging is a testament to its enduring spirit of innovation.
With 107 hectares of vineyards across six prestigious Domaines in Burgundy, the winemaker has long been a champion of terroir-driven wines.
Yet, this experiment signals a willingness to push boundaries and explore new dimensions of flavor and texture.
As the *Grain de Sail II* navigates the Atlantic, it carries not just barrels of Chardonnay but the hopes of a winemaker daring to redefine the art of aging.
The results of this voyage, set to be unveiled in March, may well mark a new chapter in the history of winemaking—one where the sea, as much as the soil, shapes the soul of the wine.
In the words of Albéric Bichot, “Wine is a living thing, and like all living things, it thrives on change and challenge.” With this transatlantic experiment, Albert Bichot has set sail on a journey that promises to deepen our understanding of wine and its infinite possibilities.
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